Orkney Archaeologists may have discovered one of the largest stone circles in Britain.

A large stone circle may lay under the waters of the Loch of Stenness

A report in the New Scotsman on 9th October announced findings from Seismic images taken in the Loch of Stenness, which appear to show a large circular feature in the water south of the Ring of Brodgar.

Archaeologists are now planning to send a diving team into the area to investigate the findings.

Similar in size to the Ring of Brodgar, which to date is the third largest in Britain, Archaeologists are excited about discovering a much earlier structure.

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A small stone figurine, now named the “Brodgar Boy” has been unearthed at the Ness of Brodgar excavations in Stennes, Orkney.

The Brodgar Boy was found, last week, in one of the later structures on the multi-phase Neolithic complex in the heart of Neolithic Orkney.

This latest find bring the figurine find in Orkney to three;

First there was the Orkney Venus or the Westray Wife, which was found in Westray in the summer of 2009 and was hailed as Scotland’s earliest representation of a human.

A year later, a second figurine turned up during the 2010 season of excavations at the Links of Noltland.

The Brodgar figure was discovered in the rubble of Structure Fourteen, in the northern corner of the main trench of one of the later structures on the multi-phase Neolithic complex.

The figurine is only 30mm high and seems to have a head, body and two eyes. Although nowhere near as finely produced as the Westray Wife, the Brodgar find does seem to be a representation of the human form – although admittedly fairly crude.

(image courtesy of Sigurd Towrie - Orkneyjar)

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More information

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A PhD history candidate at York University is looking for anyone who can share their Orkney gardening experience to shed light on the Hudson Bay Company fur trader’s gardens.

Tankerness House Gardens

She is  writing her thesis on the fur traders’s gardens featuring the Hudson’s Bay Company from 1670 – 1770.

This means exploring how the early Orkneymen who arrived on Hudson’s Bay were expected to plant gardens and cultivate vegetables in a land where gardening had never been attempted.

She would love to hear from anyone in the Orkney Islands who can share the Orkney garden experience  (today and/or 1670 – 1770).

Are you an Orkney Gardener?

What are the challenges and or benefits of growing food in the islands?

Did your ancestors work for the Hudson Bay Company?

How do Orcadian’s view gardening?

What grows well and what do you struggle to grow?

If you feel you can help in any way, please contact us using the comments section at the end of this article.

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Skara Brae is probably the best preserved neolithic settlement in Britain.  Overlooking the Bay of Skaill, it gives us an insight into the lives of our Orkney ancestors.

One of the best preserved neolithic settlements in Britain

In 1850, severe storms and high tides eroded the sands to give early glimpses of the settlement and over the years, archaeological excavations have revealed one of the most “in tact” neolithic human habitations, occupied for at least 500 years from around 3100 to 2500 BC.

A group of seven dwellings is connected by winding narrow “streets” which are capped with stone and covered by midden.  These narrow “hobbit like” passage ways would have given great protection from the winds and rain.

All of the houses are of a similar design, a central space with alcoves fashioned from the stone.  In the centre of the main room would have been a large hearth, where the fire would have kept the dwelling cosy and provided cooking facilities.

One or two small cupboards or rooms led from the main space and may have been used for storage, but recent discoveries have shown that in some cases, these were actually indoor toilets.  Coprolites (fossils of human faeces) have been found along with evidence of drainage channels….let’s face it, anybody who knows the Orkney weather, would understand the need for this neolithic en suite bathroom.

It is thought that the houses would have been roofed in turf, bracken and midden, possibly laid on timbers pitched to a point at the ceiling.

Artifacts found at the Skara Brae site include; jewellery, bone tools, stone pot lids and carved stone objects.

More information

Orkneyjar – Find out more about Skara Brae and Orkney’s neolithic past.

Historic Scotland – Skara Brae details and visitor information.

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The pre reformation Tankerness House in Kirkwall is now home to the Orkney Museum, but has a wealth of history of it’s own.

The frontage of Tankerness House belies what lays behind

Opposite St Magnus Cathedral in Kirkwall is Orkney’s finest town house, with the first pre reformation structures built as manses for the Archdeacon and Choir Master of St. Magnus Cathedral.

Following the reformation in 1574, it became home to Gilbert Fulzie, Kirkwall’s first Protestant priest.

The street front to the house does little to illustrate the large building that lays behind.

Built  around a rectangular courtyard with a large walled garden, it was acquired in 1641 by James Baikie and at this point was given it’s name of Tankerness House.

Baikie

Baikie, like many other names in Orkney can be traced back to it’s viking past and James Baikie, who was a successful Kirkwall merchant was descended directly from Paul Baikie, navigator to King Håkon IV in 1264, mentioned in the Orkneyinga Saga’s. James’ son Arthur Baikie became Provost of Kirkwall.

The west wing of the house was built by James Baikie in the 1640s and the family continued to live there, renovating and developing the property until

The large, well manicured gardens with the Groatie House in view

1951.  Tankerness House was then passed to Kirkwall Borough Council and later came under the care of the Orkney Islands Council.

Extensive restoration was carried out in 1968 when it was converted into Orkney Museum, telling the story of Orkney from prehistoric times to the present day.

The museum now houses artefacts from Orkney’s prehistoric past, native pictish peoples and the viking invaders and settlers.

Orkney’s commerce is also well represented with collections from local businesses and fishing industry.

Walled Garden

The beautiful walled garden of Tankerness house is planted with herbaceous borders surrounding a neatly manicured large lawn area.

Somewhat protected from the Orkney elements, the garden has a few rockeries and an area close to the house where herbs are grown.  At the bottom of the garden is a strange tower shaped building with a conical roof, known as the Groatie Hoose.

Groatie Hoose

A square box like room with it’s conical roof appears to have been in the garden of Tankerness House for many years. However, the story behind this building involves pirates, a large fire and a restoration project.

More information

Orkney Museum – Find out more about the collections and opening times.

Groatie Hoose - Discover the story behind this strange building

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Malcolm Laing was a Scottish lawyer and historian born in Orkney to Robert Laing and Barbara Blaw in 1762.  A blue heritage plaque marks the now seemingly insignificant site in Kirkwall.

Malcolm Laing birthplace opposite St. Magnus Cathedral in Orkney.

Trained as a lawyer, he was called to the Scottish bar on 9 July 1785, but his interests lay elsewhere and he spent much of his time devoted to historical study.

Following the death of a local Historian, Dr. Robert Henry, executors requested that Malcolm Laing complete his writings and in 1793, volume six of the ‘History of Great Britain’ was published.

In 1802 Laing published his own work;  ‘History of Scotland, from the Union of the Crowns, on the Accession of King James VI to the Throne of England, to the Union of the Kingdoms’.

Laing published a second, four volume, revised edition of his ‘History of Scotland’ in 1804.

The first two volumes concentrated on the ‘Dissertation on the participation of Mary Queen of Scots in the Murder of Darnley,’  His attempts to bring authenticity to the original “Casket letters” and his following conculsion makes for a very strong case against queen Mary.

He also edited ‘The Life and Historie of James VI,’ in 1804 and a year later in 1805, Laing published two volumes on the ‘Poems of Ossian, containing the Poetical Works of James MacPherson in Prose and Verse, with Notes and Illustrations.’

1805 also saw his marriage to Margaret Dempster Carnegie, on 10 September, daughter of Thomas Carnegie and Mary Gardyne.  They had no children.

Malcolm Laing represented Orkney and Shetland in Parliament, between 1807 and 1812 as a Liberal politician and did a great deal to improve agriculture in the region.

Heritage Plaque marking the place of his birth

In 1808, Malcolm Laing returned to his estate in Orkney.  He became ill, never leaving the bounds of his estate.  When Sir Walter Scott visited him in 1814, he wrote ‘Our old acquaintance, though an invalid, received us kindly; he looks very poorly, and cannot walk without assistance, but seems to retain all the quick, earnest, and vivacious intelligence of his character and manner’ (Lockhart, Life of Scott, ed. 1842, p. 271).

Laing died at his Orkney estate on 6th November 1818. A memorial tablet is situated on the wall of the north nave of Kirkwall Cathedral;

‘Depth, truth, and independence as an historian were,’ says Lord Cockburn, ‘the least of his merits, for he was a firm, warm-hearted, honest man, whose instructive and agreeable companionship was only made the more interesting by a hard, peremptory, Celtic manner and accent.’

Available from our Spirit of Orkney book store

More Information

Electric Scotland – Significant Scots.

History of Scotland, from the Union of the Crowns, on the Accession of King James VI to the Throne of England, to the Union of the Kingdoms

This title remains a valuable work for those studying Scottish history and is available from the Spirit of Orkney secure online book store.

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Following recent publicity, could the net be closing in on the WWII Ness Battery mural painter?

Could this be a reminder of home?

A mysterious World War II mural at the Ness Gun Battery in Orkney, painted by A R Woods, has led to a worldwide search for the artist.

The Ness Gun Battery guarded one of the entrances to the naval anchorage of Scapa Flow, which formed an important part of Britain’s defences in World War Two.

Ness gun battery

The Ness Battery is the most important World War II coast gun battery in the country.  It includes the original concrete structures (gun emplacements, battery observation post and engine room) but is exceptional in having the original 1938 wooden camp buildings, which are the only surviving examples of their kind in the UK.

It is also famed for its striking mural on the walls of the mess hut, depicting a rural English scene and signed by a mysterious, AR Woods.

The site was acquired by the Council from the Ministry of Defence in 2002 and the project now forms part of the Scapa Flow Landscape Partnership.   Tours were held at the site throughout 2010, with around 600 people attending.

Conservation

Conservation work is due to begin on the site this year, and historians hope they can finally identify the artist, as previous attempts to solve the mystery have failed.

Julian Branscombe, Project Manager for the Scapa Flow Landscape Partnership, said:

“This site has survived very well over the last 73 years. However, the buildings now need a lot of work, particularly the wooden accommodation huts.

These huts would benefit from woodwork and repainting, and complete replacement of the roofing. The 1970s suspended ceiling will be removed in the mess hall – this will allow the newly re-discovered mural above to be readily seen once more.

Issuing these Invitations to Tender to our four potential contractors is an important step in securing the future of this wonderful Scheduled Ancient Monument.”

Orkney Islands Council is receiving funds for the works from the European Regional Development Fund, Historic Scotland and Heritage Lottery Fund, as part of the Scapa Flow Landscape Partnership Scheme.

Worldwide response

The response since the story went on the internet, and Reporting Scotland, has been worldwide, with encouragement from as far afield as Dayton,

Is this our mysterious artist?

Ohio, and all kinds of possibilities suggested, including a picture of a Mr A R Woods, who is a likely candidate.

A R Woods

Mr Branscombe said; “There is no certainty that this is our man, but he certainly painted, and is the sort of person who the Navy may have sent to Orkney to assist with the naval Examination Service, which was the section of the Navy which was based in the middle of the Royal Artillery (Army) camp at Ness Battery”.

This man would have been in his early 60s at the building of Ness Battery and the start of WWII, and there is currently no documentary evidence that he made it to Orkney.

Searches are continuing, and Mr Branscombe is confident that they will pull all this together in the end. It is hoped that just as they did with the Italian Chapel, they will discover the story of the painting of the mural, and be able to trace descendants of AR Woods, so that they can be brought to Orkney to see it.

If you feel you have any information that would help this quest, please contact us using the comments section at the end of this article.

Other pictures in the mess office depict caravans and the frontage of a cottage.

More information

The Scapa Flow Landscape Partnership Scheme

Search on over WWII mural mystery – BBC Scotland
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A heritage plaque on a fairly insignificant building on a Kirkwall street indicates the site of a 17th century Town Hall and Prison.

A heritage plaque is situated on the side of the building

On the corner of Albert Street and The Strynd, Kirkwall, a building with whitewashed lower walls once served it’s time as Kirkwall Town Hall and a prison.

If anybody has any more information on the history of this building or indeed any of it’s inmates, we would be keen to hear from you.

You can contact us by using the comments section at the end of this article.

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A large part of the imposing and magnificent St. Magnus Cathedral in Kirkwall has stood for over 850 years.

In 1137, work started on this church built of red and yellow sandstone, to house the bones (relics) of St. Magnus.

St. Magnus

Northern side view featuring the Rose window.

St. Magnus is the patron saint of Orkney and a 12th century Norwegian ruler of the islands.

Earl Magnus Erland ruled alongside his cousin Earl Haakon but the two had many differences.

Around 1117, the two earls were brought together by their followers, in an attempt at reconciliation but the warmongering Earl Haakon had no intention of a peaceful meeting and brought with him eight ships and an army of men.

The popular and peace loving Earl Magnus attempted to settle things amicably but Haakon’s advisers insisted that Magnus must die.

The grim task fell upon Haakon’s cook, Lifolf, who killed Magnus with his axe.  The body was then buried at Christ’s Church in Birsay.

Miracles

Stories of miraculous cures began to be associated with Earl Magnus’ burial place.  Public opinion became so strong that the Bishop of Orkney declared Magnus a saint and the day of his death, 16th April, became the day of his martyrdom.

Earl Rognvald

In 1129 Kali Kolson, the nephew of Earl Magnus came to Orkney and defeated Haakon’s ruling son.  Kali became Earl of Orkney and took the name Rognvald in memory of a previous Earl.  Rognvald vowed he would build a church of stone dedicated to his uncle and to it “be brought his relics and with them the Episcopal seat”.

Upon his death, Rognvald was laid to rest in the magnificent church which he had founded, and thirty years after his death was also declared a saint.  The remains of St. Magus and St. Rognvald remain within the cathedral.

The cathedral

Stunning vaulted ceiling and Romanesque arches of the nave

The strong walls of St Magnus Cathedral are constructed of red and yellow sandstone, giving a warmth and softness to the magnificent structure.

Impressive Romanesque style blind arches, run along the full length of the nave of the cathedral.  It is suggested that these were not only ornamental but helped to reduce the weight of the walls.

Detailing in the stonework is breathtaking but not ostentatious.  For a large building constructed of stone, it has a feeling of homely warmth and a certainty that one is safe within it’s walls.

Many tombstones lifted from the floor, now stand against the walls of the nave isles, the majority from the 17th century.

An arched recess in the south wall is believed to belong to the native Orkney Paplay family and is thought to date back to the 14th century.

Dungeons & Knights Templar

St. Magnus cathedral is the only cathedral in the British Isles with a dungeon.  Located between the south wall of the choir and south transept chapel, it is known as Marwick’s Hole and records tell of imprisoned men and women as late as the 18th century.

A Knights Templar cross can also be seen carved into one of the stones in the south transept.

Fine carvings

Throughout the cathedral is a wealth of intricate wooden carvings.  None more so than the choir area and the decorative organ screen designed by George Mackie Watson.

During restoration works in 1919, some of the stones in the choir’s south arcade were found to be loose.  In a cavity behind these stones was found a casket containing the relics of St. Magnus.  The casket now resides in Orkney Museum but the bones were restored to their original resting place.

HMS Royal Oak

Memorial in St Magnus Cathedral

In the north choir isle, is a memorial to the 833 drowned men of HMS Royal Oak, which was torpedoed in Scapa Flow by a German U-Boat in 1939.

The ship’s bell which was recovered from the wreck by dievrs int he 1970′s, hangs over a wooden plaque and glass topped case.

The glass case contains a book listing the names of those who perished at sea.

A regular weekly job of the cathedral wardens is to turn a single pages of the book of remembrance.

St. Rognvald Chapel

The east end of the choir, part of which dates from the 13th century was dedicated St Rognvald chapel in 1965.  New furnishings were commissioned which incorporate 16th and 17th century carved panels which had been held for preservation in the cathedral.

Fine carvings and ancient panels adorn the chapel

Designed by Orcadian Dr Stanley Cursiter, the Queen’s limner and Painter in Scotland and made by local carpenter Reynold Eunson, the communion table and prayer desk are inlaid with the 16th and 17th century panels with three figures of Kol, St. Rognvald and Bishop William the Old standing above in three arches.

Arctic Explorer

A monument to a great Orcadian explorer

To the right of the St. Rognvald Chapel is a life size monument to Dr. John Rae, the famous Orcadian Arctic explorer who surveyed parts of the North West Passage and discovered the fated Franklin expedition.

More information

Orkneyinga Saga - Discover more about the Norse Earldom of Orkney.

St Magnus Cathedral website

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The Ring of Brodgar in Orkney is one of the largest neolithic stone circles and henges in Britain.

Stall standing majestic over 4000 years later

Thought to have been built in the late Neolithic period, around 2500BC (a hundred years after the great pyramid of Cheops), The Ring of Brodgar was originally a near perfect circle of about 60 standing stones, measuring 104 metres in diameter.

Only 36 of the original 60 stones stand today and thirteen of these were re-erected shortly after the monument came into state ownership in 1906.

The stone circle is surrounded by a 10 meter wide ditch or henge with two opposing causeways running across it.

Many of the stones have succumbed to the Orkney elements over the years, some fallen, some cracked but still an imposing feature on the landscape.

The Ring of Brodgar is situated in a natural amphitheatre, surrounded by gently rolling hills and flanked on either side by the waters of Harry and Stennes Lochs.  This gives weight to the suggestion that the stone circle was used as a communal meeting and ceremonial place.

Where are the Brodgar stones from?

Close inspection of the monoliths, reveal that they are made from different types of red sandstone, suggesting that they have been

A commanding view over the Orkney landscape

quarried from many parts of Orkney.

To the north of Skara Brae are the remains of a prehistoric quarry with several large, work in progress monoliths still in situ.

Brodgar Archaeology

The fields that surround the ring of Brodgar are rich in archaeology but most is hidden from view.

Geophysicial surveys over recent years, reveal a prehistoric field system and settlement remains, which suggest that people may have been living in the area when the stone circle was built.

More information

Orkneyjar - Ring o’ Brodgar article

Historic Scotland – The ring of Brodgar circle and henge

Ring of Brodgar gallery

• Standing stones of Stenness
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• Ness of Brodgar Neolithic figurine
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